| The
Season of 2006

The end
of September saw the end of yet another wonderful summer cruising
around the islands of the Hebrides. As usual the company was convivial,
the food excellent and the wildlife - always offering something
new.
But there were some changes
from previous years:
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Although
St Kilda remains a fabulous place to visit, things there are
changing.
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Boreray and the
Stacs still maintain their air of being from a time aeons
ago. When Boreray is shrouded in mist it seems like a world
apart.
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But
Hirta is somewhat different being brought into the 21st century
by the stark display of technology to be seen at the Radar
tracking base and by the number of boats now visiting there.
Things have changed since the advent of GPS (Global Positioning
system). It does not require as much skill or knowledge of
the sea to get to St Kilda in a small boat nowadays as it
used to, and as a result visitor numbers are increasing rapidly.
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Seagoing
craft are being displaced by RIBs - plastic inflatable boats, which
can zoom out to the island in two or three hours and deposit their
load of battered and rather windswept passengers ashore for a short
visit, and then leave at full speed swerving through the flocks
of puffins and auks that were resting peacefully in the bay until
sent scurrying for their lives. We counted six of these "pleasure"
craft one day all demonstrating the same care and consideration
during their visit. Some show more consideration, but sadly not
many.
What lies
ahead for the Archipelago is hard to say. Whether the award of World
Heritage status seems to have been a good thing -? More and more
people flock there after seeing the islands on the TV or in newspaper
articles - one of the places to visit before you die?
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Now
the other secluded places are getting the same treatment -
the Monachs seen on the BBC's Autumn Watch! Now I suppose
the Monachs will be another place on the must see list! Soon
there will be nowhere secluded and peaceful left. Still at
least the weather helps to keep some sense of proportion out
amongst the islands. |
A year
of ups and downs, both from the weather and the wildlife point of
view.
Whether its due to climate
change, relocation or simply having been shot by the Norwegians,
there was a distinct reduction in the number of minke whales around
the Small Isles and Mull this year. The best numbers were to be
seen around Staffa and into Loch na Keil where we were treated to
some wonderful sights of surge feeding. But elsewhere the animals
were elusive, especially as the season wore on.
We are very fortunate
because we are not limited to a short daily distance from a home
port. We are able to go to where the whales have last been seen,
and to some extent the distance we need to travel is irrelevant.
Still
the appearance of lots of Basking sharks made up for the lack
of minke sighting in some way. There were a lot of them around,
but whether this is due to increased numbers overall I'm unsure.
It was gratifying to see a lot of smaller sharks in the 2-3
metre class. However were the sharks up in the Hebrides because
things have got better for them up here or because things
have got worse in their more normal feeding areas?
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Certainly
2005 saw very cold water temperatures here, but it was warmer this
season. Most noticeable however was the lack of plankton . Normally
we can expect a plankton bloom in March/April which feeds the emerging
fish fry. Then another in July which fattens up the same small fish,
providing food for the now fledging Auk chicks. This year - the
early bloom was there but it was not intense, unfortunately the
mid-season bloom just didn't happen - thus few small fish, and although
the auks had successfully hatched good numbers of chicks, there
simply wasn't the food to feed them as they grew up. shoal of Mackerel
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Noticeable
too were the huge shoals of small "joey" mackerel
around which were avidly consuming the few small fish which
were to be found. These fish, at about 24cms, are too big
for the auks to be able to fed to their chicks. Kittimake
trying to eat fishOne very hungry kittiwake can be seen here
trying to down a small mackerel with no success and was forced
to leave it and search elsewhere. Reports came from around
the coast later in the year of large numbers of dead auks
to be found washed up on the beaches. Odd how the BBC's Autumn
watch never picked up on this - one of the most important
developments in the Autumn of 2006. |
Sea
eagles have been doing extremely well this year. Bad weather
put paid to a few chicks sadly, noticeably on Skye, but we
were successful in seeing sea eagles on every trip, in fact
some spectacular sightings were made |
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Among
the islands, there are changes. The Small isles ferry system
is now fully set up and running and it is now possible to
visit them all with relative ease. The new pier at Canna is
pretty good although the reef which lies within twenty feet
of the slip has proved a bit of a trap for several unwary
yachtsmen and on one occasion passenger RIB! The one time
catholic church, now Gaelic accommodation block, is still
undergoing repairs to the roof, and a publicity campaign to
bring more residents to the island seems to be well underway.
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Rum
is as always Rum, still wet and windy although we had a superb
walk from Kinloch over to Glen Harris on one wonderfully sunny
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We
had some good visits to Eigg this year, and despite my best
efforts I still have no good images from inside the Massacre
cave. However that was made up for by some lovely spring shots
amongst the woods. |
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Muck
is as welcoming as ever and a regular call in for us. Never
to be called a secluded place it still manages to offer some
of the nicest walks in the islands. |
And
what of the flowers this year? again perhaps due to the changes
in our weather, there seemed to be discrepancies in the appearance
of the various species this year. We had primroses and bluebells
out together well into June, and many other early species
lasted even later. the orchids were tremendous and again seemed
to last much longer than normal. |
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Later
in the year, and in fact after my sea going season finished it was
very apparent that the trees were behind the times as well. I was
hoping to go to Glen Affric in mid October with Gill and Brian Fuller
to photograph the autumn colours, but was diverted by a yacht delivery
job. However the trees seemed to take another three weeks to change
and in fact I was still in France and missed this fabulous annual
spectacle. I was told it was exceptional !! It was compensated for
by some wonderful scenery in France but I still prefer the west
of Scotland.
So now
I'm home on Skye with short days, wet weather and wind! Lovely some
times but there is little daylight to fully enjoy it. Walks up the
hills to the snowline have been good, and I am now getting ready
to prepare Guideliner for the forthcoming season. What will 2007
bring? Well I suppose more changes are a dead cert. Let us all hope
that the wildlife is able to adapt quickly in order to cope with
them.
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I
can hardly find the patience to wait for May when it all starts
again. Many previous guests have signed up for next season
and I look forward very much to seeing them and meeting all
the new friends we will make.
Meanwhile
all the best to you all and thanks for looking at this site.
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